Home, sweet home

I'm getting tired of the conditions all over Europe! It seems that July is the new November.
 So I go for some climbing at the good old local spots.

But now, I will try to catch some good conditions in Magic. Cross your finger for a sun-kissed weekend!

Cheers, Kaier.

The 'Wisent' Area

In my last post, I told you about my new boulder Greenbay in the area called Wisent. This great new spot was discovered and cleaned by Rul, Daniel, Karthi, Jörch and me. Now here is a sketch of how to get there.

Subsequent the description of the boulders (in german):

Sektor Primetime:
Bitte platzsparend bei der Gartenanlage parken und immer ganz nett zu den Kleingärtnern sein. Andere Parkmöglichkeiten die sicher näher am Felsen sind, sind Privatgrund!
Boulder: siehe Foto + diverse Boulder verstreut um den Hügel

Sektor Wisent:
Bitte parkt ca. 100m unterhalb des Zugangs bei den Parkbuchten am Straßenrand und NICHT direkt oben vor dem Schild 'Wisent'! Die Anwohner finden das Zustellen ihrer Einfahrt (egal wie ihr parkt) nicht so toll. Alle Boulder sind markiert und gut zu identifizieren.
Boulder (hinten):
*Kombinat 100 (FA S. Karthäuser) fb 5c - Traverse von l-r
*Kombinat direkt (FA D. Siegismund) fb 6a - Straightup in der Mitte der Traverse
*Manifest (FA D. Siegismund) fb 7a+ - Low-Start Loch + Sloper und über Seitleite hoch

*Kapital (FA K. Rösner) fb 7a - Start an Seituntergriff und über Sloper das Manifest raus
Boulder (Höhle):
*Geisterfahrer (FA R. v. Stülpnagel) fb 6c - Hockstart am Block in der Höhle, durch das Dach zur Landstraße abklettern und diese rückwärts zum Start
*Bombenfest (FA D. Siegismund) fb 6c - SD am rechten Höhlenrand und linkshaltend hoch
*Landstraße (FA R. v. Stülpnagel) fb 5c - SD wie Bombenfest, Traverse am rechten Höhlenrand und hinten in der Höhle hoch zu Henkel
*Greenbay (FA K. Rösner) fb 7(?) - Hockstart am linken Höhlenrand und über Sloper zur Mitte der Höhle und dann gerade raus
*Don't Dyno (FA R. v. Stülpnagel) fb 6b - SS an linker Höhlenseite und über Löcher nach rechts zu Henkel

Zwei Projekte befinden sich in der linken Nachbarhöhle.

Enjoy it, Kaier.

It's done ...

What a great saturday!
It took me a lot of patience to meet this project in climbable conditions. With -11°C and sunshine it had nearly perfect requirements for an promising attempt.
Hence after a lot of work I could climb my hardest FA, called Greenbay. A beautiful roof with big slopers, tricky pinches, small fingerholes and sharp crimps. Didn't sound this like a tasty menu for everyone? I've got no idea about the grade, maybe something like fb 7? or so? You have to try it and then we can start this (unimportant) discussion ;).

Take this to make your fingers sweat:

Cheers, Kaier.

Brrrr.....

All of us knew that some day he will come. And now there he is, Mr. Snow.
Normally henceforth we came into a period of continuously snowing and meltig. An annoying time where nothing is climbable. Last weekend we had this situation, where it wasn't frosty enough to held the water away from the stones. Nevertheless we find some dry rock and Marko and Alex could repeat some stuff in our new area. What a nice start into the winter-season.
I hope to report about this new spot soon. So stay psyched! ;)

But currently the conditions are getting prime and it looks like a stable situation with freezing temps. Hopefully a good chance to crush down some outstanding projects. My motivation is high!

But the truth is: Climbing in shorts and shirt is much more convenient than wearing 2 pants, socks and sweaters :).

A friendly 'Hohoho' to you,
Kaier.