Dezember 14, 2010

The 'Wisent' Area

In my last post, I told you about my new boulder Greenbay in the area called Wisent. This great new spot was discovered and cleaned by Rul, Daniel, Karthi, Jörch and me. Now here is a sketch of how to get there.



Subsequent the description of the boulders (in german):

Sektor Primetime:
Bitte platzsparend bei der Gartenanlage parken und immer ganz nett zu den Kleingärtnern sein. Andere Parkmöglichkeiten die sicher näher am Felsen sind, sind Privatgrund!
Boulder: siehe Foto + diverse Boulder verstreut um den Hügel

Sektor Wisent:
Bitte parkt ca. 100m unterhalb des Zugangs bei den Parkbuchten am Straßenrand und NICHT direkt oben vor dem Schild 'Wisent'! Die Anwohner finden das Zustellen ihrer Einfahrt (egal wie ihr parkt) nicht so toll. Alle Boulder sind markiert und gut zu identifizieren.
Boulder (hinten):
*Kombinat 100 (FA S. Karthäuser) fb 5c - Traverse von l-r
*Kombinat direkt (FA D. Siegismund) fb 6a - Straightup in der Mitte der Traverse
*Manifest (FA D. Siegismund) fb 7a+ - Low-Start Loch + Sloper und über Seitleite hoch
*Kapital (FA K. Rösner) fb 7a - Start an Seituntergriff und über Sloper das Manifest raus
Boulder (Höhle):
*Geisterfahrer (FA R. v. Stülpnagel) fb 6c - Hockstart am Block in der Höhle, durch das Dach zur Landstraße abklettern und diese rückwärts zum Start
*Bombenfest (FA D. Siegismund) fb 6c - SD am rechten Höhlenrand und linkshaltend hoch
*Landstraße (FA R. v. Stülpnagel) fb 5c - SD wie Bombenfest, Traverse am rechten Höhlenrand und hinten in der Höhle hoch zu Henkel
*Greenbay (FA K. Rösner) fb 7(?) - Hockstart am linken Höhlenrand und über Sloper zur Mitte der Höhle und dann gerade raus
*Don't Dyno (FA R. v. Stülpnagel) fb 6b - SS an linker Höhlenseite und über Löcher nach rechts zu Henkel

Zwei Projekte befinden sich in der linken Nachbarhöhle.

Enjoy it, Kaier.

Dezember 06, 2010

It's done ...

What a great saturday!
It took me a lot of patience to meet this project in climbable conditions. With -11°C and sunshine it had nearly perfect requirements for an promising attempt.
Hence after a lot of work I could climb my hardest FA, called Greenbay. A beautiful roof with big slopers, tricky pinches, small fingerholes and sharp crimps. Didn't sound this like a tasty menu for everyone? I've got no idea about the grade, maybe something like fb 7? or so? You have to try it and then we can start this (unimportant) discussion ;).

Take this to make your fingers sweat:


Cheers, Kaier.

Dezember 02, 2010

Nival

This beautiful winter-wonder-land only let you a single choise were to make your next bouldering trip to. For sure: The frictionless limestone of the frankenjura ;). Bouldering there is almost like taking pictures with an analog camera. You climb some good looking lines and only afterwards you get to know what you have climbed. When it is a pleasant surprise, I like that :).
Concerning to the friction-coldness I've got very few photos. Sry.



Ceya in the woods,
Kaier.

November 30, 2010

Brrrr.....

All of us knew that some day he will come. And now there he is, Mr. Snow.
Normally henceforth we came into a period of continuously snowing and meltig. An annoying time where nothing is climbable. Last weekend we had this situation, where it wasn't frosty enough to held the water away from the stones. Nevertheless we find some dry rock and Marko and Alex could repeat some stuff in our new area. What a nice start into the winter-season.
I hope to report about this new spot soon. So stay psyched! ;)


But currently the conditions are getting prime and it looks like a stable situation with freezing temps. Hopefully a good chance to crush down some outstanding projects. My motivation is high!

But the truth is: Climbing in shorts and shirt is much more convenient than wearing 2 pants, socks and sweaters :).


A friendly 'Hohoho' to you,
Kaier.

November 14, 2010

Alp-Selection

 At the beginn of october I went to the alps again, to visit some friends and have a good time in the mountains. Here are a small selection of this beautifull spot.